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Lavender and ylang ylang soap

Difficulty: Intermediate
Time: 1 hr
Yields: 1200 g soap or 10 bars

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Aromatherapy is usually not associated with soaps, but rather with massage oils and diffusers, to maximise the olfactory effects of the essential oils on both the body and the mind. However, when we use soap in the shower, the steam also enhances the fragrance and envelopes our senses in the fragrance of the soap. The olfactory system, or sense of smell, is a complex, largely passive system, but which can have a powerful effect on the mind. Smells induce memories and feelings in us, and can even change our moods and perception, and bodily responses. For example, think of chocolate and the smell of chocolate. Most likely it will bring up thoughts of eating chocolate. You might feel warm and fuzzy. Maybe you can even smell and taste it in your mind and you might even start to salivate in your mouth. Now think of smelling something disgusting. I’ll leave it up to you what you want to think of. The most common reaction would probably be nausea and you might unconsciously even wrinkle your nose in disgust. These two examples show how powerful the sense of smell can be, and we were only thinking of the smells. Now imagine if we were actually smelling them!

So it makes sense that the fragrance of the soap and shampoo you use in your morning shower will have an effect on your mood and on how you start off your day. Remember this the next time you shower!

With this in mind, I  wanted to create a soap, which focuses on the properties rather than just the fragrance of the essential oils. For this soap, I chose a simple blend of lavender and ylang ylang essential oils. Ylang ylang, which has a delicate floral scent, is said to lift the spirit and induce feelings of joy and happiness. In aromatherapy, it is often used to treat depression and anxiety. Lavender compliments the uplifting effect of ylang ylang by adding calmness and serenity to the blend. The result of the combination is a stunningly beautiful and comforting fragrance.

If you have never made cold-process soap before, I strongly suggest you check out the basic cold process soap tutorial first.

Before starting, please read the safety and precautions post, especially since this tutorial requires the handling of caustic soda!

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ONE: To prepare the lye, first measure out the water in a heat proof Pyrex jug. Then, in a separate container (I use a little plastic cup for this), weigh out the caustic soda. Make sure you are wearing protective goggles and gloves. Carefully, add the caustic soda to the water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY ROUND!), and avoiding any splashes, stir until the lye water is clear. Add two teaspoons of sodium lactate, which will help harden the soap and set aside to cool.

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TWO: In a separate large Pyrex jug or pot, weigh out the coconut oil and shea butter. Either heat in the microwave (if using a Pyrex jug) or on the stove (if using a pot), until the oil and butter has completely melted.

I love using shea butter in my shower soaps because it helps to condition and balance the skin. It’s a great additive for any skin type, especially sensitive and ageing skin.

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THREE: Weigh out the olive oil, rice bran oil and castor oil to the now-liquid coconut oil and shea butter, and give it a quick stir.

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FOUR: Make sure you are still wearing your goggles and gloves. Once the lye has cooled down to room temperature, carefully add it to the oils and then using a stick blender, pulse and stir until the oil/lye mixture has emulsified (does not separate).

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FIVE: Add your essential oils and give it a quick whisk.

SIX: Keep mixing with your stick blender or whisk until the soap has thickened to a medium trace. Then pour it in your soap mold and sprinkle some lavender flowers and rose petals over the surface.

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SEVEN: Let the soap sit in the mold for several days. After 2 or 3 days, check if the soap has hardened and isn’t sticky and soft anymore. Carefully unmold, and leave to dry out for another couple of days before cutting it into bars. The bars of soap will need a further 6-8 weeks to cure before they are ready for use.

Lavender and ylang ylang soap

  • Difficulty: intermediate
  • Print
Before starting, make sure you wear protective goggles and gloves and work in a well-ventilated area, free from any distractions!

Ingredients

  • 550g olive oil
  • 250g coconut oil
  • 100g rice bran oil
  • 50g shea butter
  • 50g castor oil
  • 137g caustic soda
  • 270 ml water
  • 2 teaspoons sodium lactate
  • 20 ml lavender essential oil
  • 20 ml ylang ylang essential oil

Directions

  1. Measure out 270 ml of water into a heat proof Pyrex jug. Weigh out the caustic soda and carefully add it to the water, avoiding any splashes. Gently stir until all the caustic soda has dissolved and the lye water is clear.
  2. Add 2 teaspoon of sodium lactate to the lye water. Set the lye aside to cool down.
  3. In a large heat proof Pyrex jug or pot, weigh out the coconut oil and shea butter. Heat in microwave (if Pyrex jug) or stove (if pot) until all the oil and butter has melted.
  4. Add the olive oil, rice bran oil and castor oil to the now-liquid coconut oil and shea butter, and give it all a quick stir.
  5. Once the lye has cooled down to room temperature, and making sure you are still wearing protective goggles and gloves, carefully add the lye to the oils.
  6. Using a stick blender, pulse and stir until the oil/lye mixture has emulsified.
  7. Add the essential oils and keep stick blending until the soap mixture has thickened to a medium trace.
  8. Pour the soap into the mold and sprinkle some lavender flowers and rose petals over the surface. Leave to harden for several days.
  9. After 2-3 days, check if the soap is firm enough to unmold. Remove from mold and leave to dry for another couple of days, before cutting into bars. The bars will need further curing for about 6-8 weeks until ready for use.

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Chamomile soap for sensitive skin

Difficulty: Intermediate
Time: 1 hr
Yields: 1200 g soap or 10 bars

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Sensitive skins need extra care and won’t tolerate harsh detergents, fragrances and chemicals. And although there has been a trend towards natural skin care, many companies still use ingredients that are linked to skin irritation, dermatitis and allergic reaction. The two most common additives are SLS (sodium laurel sulfate) and SLES (sodium laureth sulfate) derived from coconut. They’re both surfactants, know to irritate skin, however, the latter is marketed as being natural, and you’ll find it in many of your ‘natural’ products.

“The whole “coconut-derived” or “from coconut oil” or whatever verbiage you see on the label is a marketing gimmick to make you believe that somehow the ingredient is more natural.”

https://www.bewell.com/blog/sodium-lauryl-sulfate-from-coconut-is-it-safer/

When you make your own soap, you control the ingredients and what goes into the soap. In this soap, I have used only natural ingredients and it is probably one of the mildest soaps I have ever made, with a pH close to 7.5 (neutral pH is 7), due to the high super fatting content and the blend of mild and nourishing oils, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, Shea butter and jojoba oil.

It also contains chamomile and calendula. Both are well-known to have skin healing, soothing and calming properties, and by using both an oil infusion and essential oils, I have tried to maximise these benefits in the soap.

Although I don’t advise to use soap on infants under 12 months, this soap is mild enough to use on toddlers and those with sensitive skin prone to allergic reactions.

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If you have never made cold-process soap before, I strongly suggest you check out the basic cold process soap tutorial first.

Before starting, please read the safety and precautions post, especially since this tutorial requires the handling of caustic soda!

To make this soap, I first had to infuse my oil with the goodness of chamomile and calendula to reap the maximum benefits of these skin healing flowers. I filled a jar with dried chamomile flowers and calendula flowers (not just the petals) and topped it up with sunflower oil, which is full of skin nourishing vitamins, especially vitamin E. I left the jar to infuse for about a month on my window sill, using the natural warmth of the summer sun to provide the heat.

If you have never infused oils before, here’s a handy guide to infusing oils, or alternatively you can buy calendula infused oil and chamomile infused oil from Pure Nature.

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ONE: Prepare your lye. Make sure you are wearing protective gear to protect your eyes and skin from any splashes! Measure out your water in a small heat proof jug or beaker. In a separate small beaker or container, weigh out the caustic soda. Then, carefully pour the caustic soda into the water, while stirring constantly until all the caustic soda has dissolved and the liquid is clear. Add 2 teaspoons of sodium lactate. This is a natural additive, which will help to harden the soap.

 

TWO: In a separate large Pyrex jug or pot, weigh out the coconut oil and shea butter. Either heat in the microwave (if using a Pyrex jug) or on the stove (if using a pot), until the oil and butter has completely melted.

I’ve added shea butter to the recipe because it is known to be anti-inflammatory and helps to soothe and balance the skin. Great for sensitive skin!

Once your oils are melted, add the olive oil, castor oil, and last, your infused sunflower oil. You want to add the infused oil last, when the oil/butter mixture is not too hot to preserve all the goodness in the infused oil.

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THREE: Make sure you are still wearing your protective goggles and gloves for this next part. Once the lye has cooled down to room temperature, carefully add it to the oils and then using a stick blender, pulse and stir until the oil/lye mixture has emulsified (does not separate).

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FOUR: Add the chamomile essential oil and keep mixing with the stick blender until the soap mixture has thickened to a medium trace.

There are basically two main types of chamomile essential oil used in aromatherapy, the clear coloured Roman chamomile liquid and the blue coloured German chamomile liquid. Both are soothing, calming and healing, but whereas the Roman chamomile works mainly on the psychological, the German chamomile does the same for the physical. German chamomile soothes, heals and calms the skin and upset tummies, whereas the Roman chamomile soothes and calms the stressed mind. However, because the mind and body are undoubtedly interlinked, many physical illnesses can be traced back to psychological problems, such as stress, and vice versa. Physical illnesses have an effect on the mind. So usually I like to use Roman chamomile essential oils, which is calming on both body and mind, and use the German chamomile for exclusive skin related problems, such as nappy rash.

In this soap I used a Roman chamomile essential oil dilution in jojoba oil to boost the properties of the already infused oil in the soap, rather than using a pure essential oil, since chamomile essential oils are very expensive. Alternatively, if you do want to use pure essential oil, you only need about 1 ml because of its potency.

 

FIVE: Pour or scoop the soap into your mold. You can either use a loaf mold or one with cavities. The recipe yields approximately 1200 g of soap which will fill a regular loaf mold or make for about 10 round soaps of 120 g each.

Sprinkle some chamomile and/or calendula flowers on the top.

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SIX: Keep the soap in the mold for a few days to harden. Carefully unmold and let the soaps cure for a further 10-12 weeks. Because of the higher than usual amount of soft oils, the soaps need a longer curing time to harden completely. As with all soaps, the longer the curing time the better the soap!

Chamomile soap

  • Difficulty: intermediate
  • Print
Before starting, make sure you wear protective goggles and gloves and work in a well-ventilated area, free from any distractions!

Ingredients

  • 450g olive oil
  • 200g coconut oil
  • 100g shea butter
  • 200g calendula and chamomile infused sunflower oil
  • 50g castor oil
  • 130g caustic soda
  • 250 ml water
  • 2 teaspoons sodium lactate
  • 50 ml Roman chamomile in jojoba oil 3% dilution
  • dried chamomile flowers

Directions

  1. Measure out 250 ml of water into a heat proof Pyrex jug. Weigh out the caustic soda and carefully add it to the water, avoiding any splashes. Gently stir until all the caustic soda has dissolved and the lye water is clear.
  2. Add 2 teaspoon of sodium lactate to the lye water. Set the lye aside to cool down.
  3. In a large heat proof Pyrex jug or pot, weigh out the coconut oil and shea butter. Heat in microwave (if Pyrex jug) or stove (if pot) until all the oil and butter has melted.
  4. Add the olive oil and castor oil to the now-liquid coconut oil and shea butter, and give it all a quick stir.
  5. Add the infused oil and give it another quick stir.
  6. Once the lye has cooled down to room temperature, and making sure you are still wearing protective goggles and gloves, carefully add the lye to the oils.
  7. Using a stick blender, pulse and stir until the oil/lye mixture has emulsified.
  8. Add the chamomile essential oil and keep stick blending until the soap mixture has thickened to a medium trace.
  9. Pour the soap into the mold and sprinkle some dried chamomile flowers on top.
  10. Leave the soap to harden for several days.
  11. After 2-3 days, check if the soap is firm enough to unmold. Remove from mold and leave to dry for another couple of days, before cutting into bars. The bars will need further curing for about 10-12 weeks until ready for use.

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Lemon and poppy seeds soap

Difficulty: Intermediate
Time: 1 hr
Yields: 1200 g soap or 10 bars

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There are many variants of lemon poppy seeds soaps on the internet, and it’s one of the highly popular soaps. The lemon gives the soap a delicious fresh fragrance, and the poppy seeds not only make for a striking effect, but also add a little exfoliation to the soap. It’s the perfect morning shower soap!

If you have never made cold-process soap before, I strongly suggest you check out the basic cold process soap tutorial first.

I’ve kept the recipe simple, using my favourite olive oil and castor oil combination. This recipe makes for a wonderful white soap, which, after sufficient curing, gives a hard and long lasting bar, that stays hard and doesn’t go all mushy in the soap dish.

The little swirl dots on top are optional. If you leave them out, you’ll find this recipe a great beginners soap, if you don’t feel too confident yet using special techniques. For those who want a bit more advanced techniques, or try their hands at piping soap, this would be a ideal project to start your piping adventures with.

Before starting, please read the safety and precautions post, especially since this tutorial requires the handling of caustic soda!

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ONE: To prepare the lye, first measure out the water in a heat proof Pyrex jug. Then, in a separate container (I use a little plastic cup for this), weigh out the caustic soda. Make sure you are wearing protective goggles and gloves. Carefully, add the caustic soda to the water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY ROUND!), and avoiding any splashes, stir until the lye water is clear. Add two teaspoons of sodium lactate, which will help harden the soap and set aside to cool.

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TWO: In a separate large Pyrex jug or pot, weigh out the olive oil and castor oil, and give it a quick stir.

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THREE: Make sure you are still wearing your goggles and gloves! Once the lye has cooled down to room temperature, carefully add it to the oils and then, using a stick blender, pulse and stir until the oil/lye mixture has emulsified (does not separate) – this is also called thin trace.

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FOUR: Add the lemon essential oil and stir well. Soaps using essential oils can be prone to orange spots in the soap over time, this is due to not mixing the essential oil properly into the soap mixture. So make sure you mix well or even use the stick blender to give it another couple of pulses.

Optional: separate about 150 ml (2/3 cup) to use as icing later on top of the soap.

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FIVE: Next add the poppy seeds. I used about a tablespoon of poppy seeds, but feel free to add less or more, depending on how much of a sprinkle effect you want in your soap.

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SIX: Pour the soap into the mold and lightly sprinkle poppy seeds over one half of the surface.

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OPTIONAL: If you have separated some of the soap earlier to use as icing, check the consistency of the soap. If it has thickened sufficiently to pipe (in other words, keep its shape), add to an icing bag and pipe little swirls along one side of the soap. If the soap is still to thin, carefully use the stick blender to thicken it to the right consistency. For these swirls I used the piping tip #1M

SEVEN: After 2 or 3 days, check if the soap has hardened and isn’t sticky and soft anymore. Carefully unmold, and leave to dry out for another couple of days before cutting it into bars. The bars of soap will need a further 8-10 weeks to cure before they are ready for use.

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Lemon and Poppy Seeds Soap

  • Difficulty: intermediate
  • Print
Before starting, make sure you wear protective goggles and gloves and work in a well-ventilated area, free from any distractions!

Ingredients

  • 950g olive oil
  • 50g castor oil
  • 128g caustic soda
  • 250 ml water
  • sodium lactate
  • 30 ml lemon essential oil
  • poppy seeds

Directions

  1. Measure out 250 ml of water into a heat proof Pyrex jug. Weigh out the caustic soda and carefully add it to the water, avoiding any splashes. Gently stir until all the caustic soda has dissolved and the lye water is clear.
  2. Add 2 teaspoon of sodium lactate to the lye water. Set the lye aside to cool down.
  3. In a large heat proof Pyrex jug or pot, weigh out the olive oil and castor oil, and give it a quick stir.
  4. Once the lye has cooled down to room temperature, and making sure you are still wearing protective goggles and gloves, carefully pour the lye to the oils.
  5. Using a stick blender, pulse and stir, avoiding any splashes, until the oil/lye mixture has emulsified.
  6. Add the lemon essential oil and stir well. Optional: separate approximately 150 ml of soap into a separate container to use as icing later on.
  7. Add roughly 1 tablespoon of poppy seeds and give it another good stir.
  8. Pour the soap into the mold and sprinkle poppy seeds over one half of the soap.
  9. If you have separated some of the soap earlier to use as icing, check the consistency and if necessary thicken with the stick blender until the soap can hold its shape. Scoop into an icing bag with #1M tip, and pipe little swirl dots along one half of the soap.
  10. After 2-3 days, check if the soap is firm enough to unmold. Remove from mold and leave to dry for another couple of days, before cutting into bars. The bars will need further curing for about 8-10 weeks until ready for use.

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Snow soap

Difficulty: Intermediate
Time: 1 hr
Yields: 1200 g soap or 10 bars

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Snow is a pure white soap with a special blend of pine, litsea cubeba and spearmint essential oils, which captures the fresh, crisp fragrance of a snow blanketed pine forest. The recipe uses only natural ingredients, is palm-free and vegan. The perfect soap gift for the environmentally and health conscious friend!

The mold I used for this tutorial is the silicon loaf mold with the wooden support box. The essential oils and other soap ingredients are all available from Pure Nature.

If you have never made cold-process soap before, I strongly suggest you check out the basic cold process soap tutorial first.

Before starting, please read the safety and precautions post, especially since this tutorial requires the handling of caustic soda!

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ONE: To prepare the lye, first measure out the water in a heat proof Pyrex jug. Next, in a separate container (I use a little plastic cup for this), weigh out the caustic soda. Make sure you are wearing protective goggles and gloves. Carefully, add the caustic soda to the water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY ROUND!), and avoiding any splashes, stir until the lye water is clear. Add two teaspoons of sodium lactate, which will help harden the soap and set aside to cool.

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TWO: In a separate large Pyrex jug, weigh out the coconut oil. Heat in the microwave on high for 1 minute, and then stir until the coconut oil has completely melted.

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THREE: Weigh out the olive oil and castor oil to the now-liquid coconut oil, and give the oils another quick stir.

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FOUR: Make sure you are still wearing your goggles and gloves. Once the lye has cooled down to room temperature, carefully add it to the oils and then using a stick blender, pulse and stir until the oil/lye mixture has emulsified (does not separate).

FIVE: Mix 2 teaspoons of titanium dioxide with the same amount of water, and add it to the soap. Stir it in well.

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SIX: Add the essential oils and keep stick blending the soap mixture until it has thickened to a medium trace.

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SEVEN: Using a star shaped cookie cutter, imprint star shapes onto the surface of the soap. Just push it in lightly and lift it out again. Because of the medium consistency, the imprint will leave slight star shaped ridges in the soap.

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EIGHT: Give the surface of the soap a spray with 99% isopropyl alcohol, this will avoid soap ash from forming on the surface. Leave the soap to harden in the mold for a couple of days.

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NINE: After 2 or 3 days, check if the soap has hardened and isn’t sticky and soft anymore. Carefully unmold, and leave to dry out for another couple of days before cutting it into bars. The bars of soap will need a further 8 weeks to cure before they are ready for use.

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Snow soap

  • Difficulty: intermediate
  • Print
Before starting, make sure you wear protective goggles and gloves and work in a well-ventilated area, free from any distractions!

Ingredients

  • 650g olive oil
  • 300g coconut oil
  • 50g castor oil
  • 141g caustic soda
  • 2 teaspoons sodium lactate
  • 2 teaspoons titanium dioxide
  • 20 ml pine essential oil
  • 15 ml litsea cubeba essential oil
  • 5 ml spearmint essential oil

Directions

  1. Measure out 280 ml of water into a heat proof Pyrex jug. Weigh out 141 g of caustic soda and carefully add it to the water, avoiding any splashes. Gently stir until all the caustic soda has dissolved and the lye water is clear.
  2. Add 2 teaspoon of sodium lactate to the lye water. Set the lye aside to cool down.
  3. In a large heat proof Pyrex jug, weigh out the coconut oil. Heat in microwave for 1 minute on high, and then stir until the coconut oil has fully melted.
  4. Add the olive oil and castor oil to the now-liquid coconut oil and give it another  quick stir.
  5. Once the lye has cooled down to room temperature, and making sure you are still wearing protective goggles and gloves, carefully add the lye to the oils.
  6. Using a stick blender, pulse and stir until the oil/lye mixture has emulsified.
  7. Mix 2 teaspoons of titanium dioxide with 2 teaspoons of water, and stir it into the emulsion.
  8. Add the essential oils and keep stick blending until the soap mixture has thickened to a medium trace.
  9. Pour the soap into the mold and with a star shaped cookie cutter, imprint stars onto the surface of the soap. Give the surface a quick spray with isopropyl alcohol.
  10. Leave to harden in the mold for a couple of days.
  11. After 2-3 days, check if the soap is firm enough to unmold. Remove from mold and leave to dry for another couple of days, before cutting into bars. The bars will need further curing for about 8 weeks until ready for use.

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Natural orange spice soap

Difficulty: Intermediate
Time: 1 hr
Yields: 1000 g soap or 10 bars

Orange spice has a warm orange scent with spicy notes of cinnamon and clove, the perfect blend for Christmas. Using only natural ingredients, this soap is palm-free, vegan, 100% natural, and if you use organic oils, you can even add organic to this list!

The orange/brown colour in this soap comes from the finely ground calendula petals and the cinnamon spice. Grinding the petals will ensure a more even tone through the soap. The longer you let the petals infuse the oils, the stronger the colour of your soap will be. If you just want orange without the brown, you can leave out the cinnamon spice. For a more intense orange, add more finely ground calendula petals. If you don’t have calendula in your garden, you can get dried organic calendula petals from Pure Nature.

The soap mold I’m using is the loaf soap mold with wooden support box from Pure Nature. It holds about 1200 g of soap.

If you have never made cold-process soap before, I strongly suggest you check out the basic cold process soap tutorial first.

Before starting, please read the safety and precautions post, especially since this tutorial requires the handling of caustic soda!

ONE: First, prepare your lye. Weigh out the caustic soda in a small container. Measure the water in a small pyrex or other heat proof glass jug. Then carefully add the caustic soda to the water and gently stir until all the caustic soda has dissolved. Optional: stir in one teaspoon of sodium lactate, a natural additive, which will make the soap harder. Set aside to cool.

While you are waiting for the lye to cool down….

TWO: Get all the other ingredients ready:

    • Grind calendula petals in a coffee grinder until you have about 1 tablespoon of finely ground calendula petals.
  • Take 5 cinnamon sticks and carefully cut them into half.

THREE: Weigh out the coconut oil in a pyrex jug and heat in microwave on high for two minutes or until melted.

FOUR: Weigh and add the sunflower oil, olive oil and castor oil.

FIVE: Add 1 tablespoon of finely ground calendula petals and 1 teaspoon of cinnamon spice. While you are waiting for the lye to cool down, it will allow the warm oils to be infused by the calendula petals.

SIX: Add the essential oil blend and give everything a good stir. Because we are using cinnamon and clove essential oils, which are known to accelerate the soaping process, adding them to the oils will dilute them and slow down the acceleration somewhat.

When the lye has cooled down to room temperature…

SEVEN: Make sure you are still in protective gear (goggles and gloves). Carefully pour the lye to the oils and whisk until the mixture has emulsified.

EIGHT: Keep stirring with the whisk until the soap mixture starts to thicken. Don’t be tempted to use a stick blender because the soap will suddenly start accelerating!

NINE: Pour the soap into the mold. Tap the mold gently on the bench a free times to get rid of any air bubbles.

TEN: Using a spoon, push the soap to one side along the whole length of the soap, so you have like an slope in the middle and a high top on one side only. Push in the cinnamon sticks in equal distances – one for each bar of soap. Sprinkle some calendula petals over the top.

ELEVEN: Leave it to cure in the mold for a few days, before carefully removing. Leave to cure for another day before cutting it into bars. The bars will need to cure for a further 8-10 weeks until they’re ready.

Natural orange spice soap

  • Difficulty: intermediate
  • Print
Before starting, make sure you wear protective goggles and gloves and work in a well-ventilated area, free from any distractions!

Ingredients

  • 400 g olive oil
  • 200 g coconut oil
  • 120 g sunflower oil
  • 30 g castor oil
  • 104 g caustic soda
  • 200 ml water
  • 1 teaspoon sodium lactate (optional)
  • calendula petals
  • 1 tablespoon finely ground calendula petals
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon spice
  • 20 ml sweet orange essential oil
  • 5 ml cinnamon essential oil
  • 3 ml clove essential oil
  • 5 cinnamon sticks
  • soap loaf mold (1000ml)

Directions

    1. Prepare your lye: carefully add the caustic soda to the water and stir gently until all the caustic soda has dissolved. Optional: add one teaspoon of sodium lactate. Set aside to cool.
    1. Prepare your other ingredients:
      1. Using an electric coffee grinder, finely grind up calendula petals until you have about 1 tablespoon of powder
      2. Prepare your essential oils blend: add 20 ml sweet orange essential oil, 5 ml cinnamon essential oil, and 3 ml clove essential oil in a beaker.
      3. Carefully cut 5 cinnamon sticks in half.
    1. Weigh out the coconut oil in a pyrex jug and heat in the microwave on high for 2 minute or until melted.
    1. Weigh and add the olive oil, sunflower oil and castor oil.
  1. Add 1 tablespoon of finely ground calendula petals, 1 teaspoon of cinnamon spice and the essential oils blend you prepared earlier. Stir well.
  2. When the lye has cooled down to room temperature, carefully add the lye to the oils and using only a whisk, stir the oil/lye mixture until it has emulsified and thickened (medium to thick trace).
  3. Pour into the soap mold.
  4. Using a spoon, push the soap to the middle along the whole length of the soap.
  5. Push in the cinnamon sticks equal distance apart on the top of the soap. Sprinkle on some calendula petals.
  6. Leave to cure in the mold for a few days, before removing and cutting. The bars of soap will need another 8-10 weeks of curing.